FOOD REVIEW: TRURO HUBBOX
PUBLISHED: 16:21 09 March 2016 | UPDATED: 12:41 30 August 2017
Head to hipster heaven for US-food served at its best at Truro's award-winning eatery HUBBOX
Hip, Hip, Hipster Hooray: Ewen Macdonald heads for Truro’s HUBBOX for a flavoursome burger with a side order of cool
HUBBOX is undoubtedly one of Truro’s cooler destinations - it is seriously high on the beard count. Like some millennial Brooklyn establishment beamed over to Old Blighty from a brownstone-lined street in Williamsburg, HUBBOX is straight out of the casting department for the TV show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.
Based in an old converted church HUBBOX’s interior pays homage to their original home on Lemon Quay which was in a converted steel container. With a steel pillar, corrugated metal wall frieze, industrial aesthetic, HUBBOX’s current abode stubbornly remains part of its heritage. However, the interior, replete with wonderful stained glass windows and high church beams, also retains something of the building’s original architectural integrity.
On white-washed, wood-panelled walls are painted colourful, faux naïve, Miroesque pictues by artist David Shillinglaw.
Seating upstairs is by way of old school metal and wood chairs and I do mean old school’. Light box menus above the bar are straight out of 1940s Americana newspaper adverts. Which all lends to the air of an eclectic, iconoclastic space; the seemingly disparate elements of which coalesce to produce a unique dining experience.
The food at HUBBOX is not to be outdone by the decor. This is very much a classic USA inspired menu; all burgers, dogs, pulled pork, sliders, beef brisket, grilled chicken, cheesy fries, nachos, mac and cheese and for the health conscious, winter slaw, all washed down with malt shakes, soft drinks and craft beers.
HUBBOX’s menu is all fun, you can, make me dirty for only £1’, which essentially means, top your fries with Hub sauce, diced white onions and jalapeños. You can of course pimp your patty by adding extra meat and cheese, or you could downsize and make your burger less calorific, but retain all the taste, by omitting the bun. Not that the burger buns are easy to retain in any case, my Betsy’, a falafel burger with sweet chilli jam, charred corn and an avocado salsa was somewhat larger than my regular brioche bun – be prepared to get messy at HUBBOX, it’s part of its charm. Lady had the Bella’, a grilled goat cheese burger with roasted red peppers, crispy courgette and shredded beetroot, which being a lady she consumed with far more elegance and finesse than I used to eat my burger. We added a side of hand cut fries and onion rings to our order to share and being in Hipster heaven we opted for flat white coffees to help it all down. All the food was delicious, fun and filling and we were quickly and efficiently served by the hardest working waitress/barmaid in Truro.
It’s difficult to overstate, as a vegetarian, how easy it is to feel your custom is unneeded in burger joints, but HUBBOX has no such prejudices and is welcoming of all. Which, along with the food, drink and atmosphere probably accounts for the raving popularity and high turnover of lunchtime clientele, most of whom seemed to be regulars and contrary to my previous comments, did not appear to be Hipsters.
Being not entirely unacquainted with weekend bars in the HUBBOX vein, I imagine the Friday/Saturday late night scene as having an energetically, chilled-out vibe, because that is when the beards really come out to play!