Review: Mount Haven Hotel restaurant in Marazion

PUBLISHED: 11:17 20 March 2019

Brill at Mount Haven Hotel

Brill at Mount Haven Hotel

Archant

Seriously good food with a strong sense of flavour is waiting to be discovered on Marazion’s marvellous Mount Haven Hotel restaurant menu, writes Abby Driver

If you’re craving fine dining inspired by nature, you’d do well to book a table at Mount Haven Hotel in Marazion. This 19-room retreat boasts a slick restaurant where the kitchen team are all about modern British food with a dash of adventure. And when I found out head chef Ross Sloan has a serious thing for plant-based cooking, I was sold.

A quick scroll through his foodie focused Instagram account (instagram.com/rosssloan35) reveals his penchant for foraging and experimenting – anyone for garlic leaf curd? – suffice to say, I was childishly excited for our dinner reservation.

The views from the outside terrace are captivating to say the least and we revelled in a pretty sunset over St Michael’s Mount before heading inside for dinner.

We wandered past the smart Terrace Bar, the prefect spot for a pre-dinner drink, and down into the restaurant. With a polished, fresh vibe and low-lighting it was just the place to relax and unwind over fine dining.

I was thrilled to receive a dedicated vegan menu which had not just the standard one option for starters and one option for main (usually risotto) but three options for each! I took a substantial time to decide what to order going backwards and forwards and no doubt irritating my dining partner with my constant stream of ‘I don’t know what to pick!’

In the end I settled on smoked potato velouté to start with. I was immediately reassured it was the right decision, a (gorgeous teal ceramic) bowl was brought out filled with perfectly smooth, smoky potato dressed with generous lashings of truffle oil and hazelnuts. It managed to feel both refined yet totally decadent. My dining partner had the cod starter, which he said was perfectly firm and flaky.

For the main course I selected the salt baked carrots, while the potato dish on offer sounded incredible I thought I ought to have some variety – and I’m glad I did. The salt baked carrots were an unusual delight and paired wonderfully with the nutty malted quinoa, sage and almonds. The dish came with a rich, smooth sauce which worked brilliantly the otherwise more rustic and robust flavours. My dining partner ordered the brill with oyster fritter, mussels, cockles, celeriac and sea vegetables. The substantial piece of perfectly cooked brill arrived in a spectacular looking foam of smoked buttermilk, which I’m told was delicious as it looked.

For dessert I ordered a trio of homemade sorbets – raspberry, rhubarb and hibiscus – which arrived with fresh fruit. It was a wonderful sweet, but perfectly light, end to a delicious evening of fine dining. My dining partner was too full for dessert but managed a picture-perfect flat white.

In short, I was blown away by the food at Mount Haven. Each dish was innovative and the service was flawless. The setting is just the (no doubt, foraged) cherry on the cake.

Website: mounthaven.co.uk

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