Our thoughts on the vegan burger at The Meat Counter in Falmouth

PUBLISHED: 10:58 04 July 2018 | UPDATED: 10:58 04 July 2018

The Meat Counter

The Meat Counter


Abby Driver discovers the perfect vegan burger at Falmouth’s The Meat Counter

Looking for a truly excellent vegan burger in Cornwall? A decadent monster of a burger that actually feels like a proper dirty treat and not a joyless exercise in clean eating? I’m pleased to report I have found it. And it’s in the most unlikely of places: The Meat Counter.

This Falmouth-based establishment is so into meat it’s even in the name, so it’s fair to say I visited with a healthy degree of scepticism. I have had many burgers at non-vegan restaurants and they are pretty much exclusively disappointing dry flavourless patties of bean.

But they take burgers very serious at The Meat Counter. And I was about to find out that no vegan is left behind. ‘I wanted to create a really filthy burger so vegans don’t feel restricted to making healthy choices. Everyone needs a blow out now and again. The Hail Seitan burger has been months in development and we have a tasty range of fake meat: ‘fakon’ jackfruit ‘pulled pork’ and hand-crafted seitan burgers,’ says head chef and owner Miles Barker.

Upon arrival we were seated in a window table by a super friendly waiter who explained the new menu to us and took our drinks order. I went for a bottle of Skinner’s vegan friendly hop-laden pale ale, Lushingtons, and perused the new menu. After much deliberation I ordered the Hail Seitan Burger - a seitan patty with smoked ‘facon’, vegan cheddar, gherkins, tomato, shredded lettuce, ketchup and American mustard. My vegetarian husband went for the Hallouminati burger which consisted of grilled halloumi, roast garlic mushrooms, chilli salsa, smashed avocado and garlic mayo.

The Meat CounterThe Meat Counter

Our order was with us in good time and my immediate reaction was something like pure childish delight. As promised, it looked proper filthy. Heroically, I managed to take a few photographs before diving in. It was, to put it simply, the best vegan burger I have had to date (and I have had a lot).

The patty had some real chew to it and the vegan cheese actually tasted cheesy (rather than plastic-y). It was a truly hefty burger and a proper indulgence. My dining partner thoroughly enjoyed his halloumi burger. However, after trying some of the Hail Seitan, he has decided to try out veganism for a few months. Now if that isn’t high praise, I don’t know what is.

I left very full and very impressed by the clear level of research and care which has gone into creating a truly satisfying vegan burger. For once, it didn’t feel like an afterthought. I’ll be back!


Love burgers? Perhaps you’d like to read our round-up of the best burgers in Cornwall!

Latest from the Cornwall Life