Review: The Scarlet Hotel at Mawgan Porth

PUBLISHED: 16:30 28 May 2019

Asparagus dish from the Vegan Tasting Menu

Asparagus dish from the Vegan Tasting Menu

Archant

At The Scarlet, stunning views are matched by an equally glorious tasting menu, finds Abby Driver

With serious eco-credentials and mesmerising views over Mawgan Porth beach, it's not hard to see why The Scarlet is so popular with visitors and locals alike. Despite being a fan of the spa, I'd never tried out the much-lauded restaurant. So after spotting the new vegan tasting menu, I decided that had to change.

We walked into the restaurant to be totally captivated by the views out to Atlantic Ocean and beyond. We took a seat at a generously sized booth table and got distracted from the menu with the waves and start of a glorious sunset.

Peeling ourselves away from the view momentarily, we took a quick peek at the menu and then the Scarlet's knowledgeable, yet totally approachable, Sommelier introduced us to our first vegan wine of the evening, a fresh sparkling wine from the Loire Valley. Much like the rest of the hotel, the wine is chosen with its environmental impact in mind.

After a few sips of wine, our first course arrives: spiced sweet potato, chili, lime and coconut soup. Bursting with flavour, the velvety smooth texture contrasts beautifully with the crunchy peanut topping. It also worked well with the fresh curried and currant bread of the day.

Next up we were treated to Wye Valley asparagus with sauce vierge and English truffle. If I had to picked a favourite dish, this would be it. The combination of fresh, first asparagus of the season and bright, zingy lemon tasted like spring on a plate and it took all my self-control not to wolf it down in seconds. This was paired with my favourite wine of the evening, Cuvée des Conti, a fragrant organic white wine from Château Tour des Gendres.

The main course was a beautifully plated sticky roasted beetroot tarte tatin with young spinach, hazelnuts and pear. A proper hearty dish full of warm, bold flavours, complemented perfectly with the decadent jammy-tasting, full-bodied red from the region of Morgon.

Next up we were bought a trio of sorbets: strawberry, rhubarb and pear. These bright flavours worked well with the glass of Italian Moscato they were paired with. The main dessert was a chocolate parfait with cherries, almonds and a strawberry sorbet. Studded with rich nuts, this felt like a decadent end to a flavourful yet light tasting menu. And while it was perfectly sweet, the sorbet cut through and provided a contrasting sharper taste.

Throughout the evening we were treated to unbeatable views, a menu that balanced innovation and flavours flawlessly and perfectly paired wines. The staff were on hand to make our evening as enjoyable as possible. And the Scarlet's Sommelier was a highlight of each course. If you're looking for an unforgettable evening of dining, look no further than The Scarlet.

scarlethotel.co.uk

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